On libraries, new beginnings, and eating alone

I have been trying to write about February. I wanted to tell you about this month that loomed so monumental in my mind while being in all other respects so minimal. February is a short month, an odd month, forced to change every now and then from 28 days to 29. It is the most abysmal month of winter in many places (I include Korea in that list) and the most difficult month to spell. Yet it is also the month of the Sochi Olympics, the month of Valentines day. February was the month of my middle school's graduation ceremony and the last month of our ample winter vacation. For me, this month had another meaning; for me this was the month to make it or break it.

I had a choice between living in Gumi with my host family for the month of February or living in Seoul, as many of my friends were doing. I chose, for a variety of reasons, to stay in Gumi and spend my time studying for the GRE and building relationships in my placement city. It was a difficult decision, no less because staying in Gumi meant self-managing my time, whereas in Seoul I would most likely have taken language classes. By staying in Gumi I wanted to test myself, to see how well I could sustain an energetic and productive life entirely on my own schedule.

Now, in early March I can say I did enjoy that time. I loved it. I had the freedom to study hard and the freedom to sleep. I had the time to visit friends and the time to read. I had the time to make new friends, to make new habits. Of course, not everything happens simply because you have enough time. Coming back to Korea from my visit to the States and my vacation in Taipei and Hanoi left me in the right mind to make the most of my time.

However, this time was not always pleasant. In the midst of my school's graduation, as I watched a performance of Apink's "No No No" and waved balloons for my favorite 3rd graders, my co-teacher leaned over and told me that 25 of our students were not at graduation. They had been banned for participating in the beating of several 2nd grade students just two days earlier. The news was both sad and shocking. Our school has always been rough around the edges, but I never expected something so intentionally brutal. At the same time I know that school gangs are a nation-wide problem in Korea and that for many students the choice might be between participating and suffering from bullying themselves. Over the next few days I discovered that, of the 2nd grade students, one had broken his collar bone, one had a ruptured ear drum and another had to have all his teeth moved back into place. In many ways, I became more anxious to return to school.

Saying goodbye to my other 3rd graders was sad in a very different way. I have about 245 students in the 3rd grade alone, so it's difficult to get to know any of them very well. I know I taught them only one semester and that only about 16 lessons. Of the few students who really shone and made my lessons exciting to teach, I had little belief that they would wish me a tearful goodbye and ask to stay in touch forever. Yet many students came over for a quick hug or a handshake. I was so touched that they wanted to say goodbye, especially those who told me they missed my class in the last few months.

Shortly after graduation I travelled to Seoul to visit my friends. I went twice in February. Once when I couldn't bear to study any longer and again as soon as I finished the GRE. Having a place to stay in Seoul was wonderful (thank you friends!) and as my friends were all taking classes or doing internships during the day I had a lot of time to do the touristy things in Seoul that I hadn't had time for on other weekend trips. I went twice to the National Museum of Korea, whose smoky paintings captured a facet of Korean life new to me. The museum is truly spectacular with three stories of art and artifacts from prehistory to the modern era and entirely free. In my two visits I have only conquered two of the three floors, but I was able to see the evolution of Korean calligraphy, Korean paintings — from portraits, to landscapes, to insect studies —, a re-created 'sarangbang' or Korean scholar's study and artifacts from every kingdom of Korea up to the Japanese occupation. I highly recommend a visit to anyone who will be in Seoul.

Beyond museums I spent time in cafes from the college areas of Hongdae and Idae to the tourist-turned-artistic-area of Insadong. Around Insadong I also visited the Hanok village, an area of Seoul where traditional Korean houses (circa. the Joseon Era I believe) have been preserved and are still lived in. It happened to be warm and sunny on this day, and the streets — which ask tourists to be quiet in respect for the residents — were full of screaming school children. Later I met some old friends for dinner in Myeongdong, a popular shopping neighborhood, and visited the new Seoul Museum of Modern Art, which was having a free night. Although it's not the same as living in the city, I was able to do a lot on my visits, so I now feel very comfortable in Seoul and have crossed a lot of items off my bucket list.

In Gumi school has started again. Some things are new, some are not, but the greatest change is in my confidence as a teacher. It has only been a week, but I feel that I have stepped up my game on all levels of teaching, from lesson planning to execution to classroom management to connecting with students outside of class. It has only been a week, but I have really good feelings for this semester. I again have about 700 students — 7 classes of 3rd graders, 7 classes of 2nd graders and 6 classes of 1st graders. My returning students have been surprisingly polite in class. Not sure if this is due to our continued rapport, my new classroom management plan, or some strain of first week shyness. The new 1st graders are a joy to teach. They are so eager to participate and several of the classes I've seen so far seem to be quite high level. I also have a new co-teacher for my 1st grade students who I like very much. She is both kind and efficient. I'm excited about what we can do with our classes for the rest of the semester.

I've made a few lifestyle changes for the new semester as well. I joined a gym halfway through February and have been going everyday when I can. I'm really enjoying the classes there. After a yoga class I always find my mood and motivation lifted. I've also decided to stop volunteering at the Hana Center in Daegu. This was a difficult decision to make since I really enjoyed working with my mentee and the community feeling of the center. However, commuting to Daegu once a week while working a full teaching schedule was a strain on my time and my relationships with my host family. This semester I am adding a club class to my teaching schedule, bringing my teaching hours up to 22 a week. With the added prep time and knowing my difficulty in commuting last semester I just couldn't commit to doing the program again in the spring. It would be unfair on everyone else involved for me to commit when I was unsure I could fully participate. If I stay in Korea another year, without the obligations of a host family, it is something I hope I would be able to return to.

However, whether I will be in Korea past this July is still undecided and as such I am suddenly pressed upon by the many things I have yet to do here. It's for this reason that I want to keep my weekends this semester free. If last semester I was committed to getting my bearings in Gumi, this semester I hope to roam more. I had an epiphany of sorts this February while visiting Seoul. As I said, I had a lot of alone time there as well as a lot of time in the evenings talking to my friends. But it was while I was sitting, eating alone in the restaurant of the National Museum of Korea, looking forward to drinking wine with my friends later in the evening when we were all done with our work, that I realized this is what I want to do with the rest of my semester. If during the week I am 100% committed to my school, during the weekends I want to commit myself 100% to teaching myself. I had such a feeling of comfort in my solitariness then — full of the pleasure of intellectual pursuit and the sure knowledge of my kind friends waiting for me later. We're always a bit alone in Korea, even and despite the ever present circles of host family, school family and Fulbright family. Yet there are some moments of clarity when you can turn that aloneness into something new — freedom, comfort, a new discovery. Those are the moments I will cultivate this semester and those are the lessons I want to learn.

SNAPSHOT NOVEMBER

This November I’ve been getting closer to my host family, my students and my friends here in Korea. Some of these moments I have caught on my phone, others not. Here is a sampling of the moments that have brightened my November days.

1. At Seonsan market with my host family my youngest host cousin became obsessed with this blanket. He wouldn’t leave it alone until the family bought it for him. Then he tried to carry it on his head through the whole market. When we finally tucked the blanket in our shopping bag he had to open the bag at each stop to make sure his blankie was still there.

2. A few weekends ago I went to Gwangju to see some friends and teach a lesson for the Korean Bridge Initiative (a non-profit that provides free English lessons for motivated, low-income students). The students were amazing — so intelligent and kind. Afterwards some students and teachers went out for lunch. Speaking with these students whose interests are so diverse and dreams so big encourages me to keep working hard on teaching everyday.

3. There is one coffee shop that I go to regularly in Gumi. I know both the baristas there very well by sight. Though we rarely talk, we have a rapport based on the smile and nod. Last time I was there one of the baristas brought me this latte and explained — it says “HI” to you. Perfect treat to make me smile all day.

4. November is also the time for our school field trip. I went with the second grade students to Geumo Mountain where we hiked and looked at the autumn leaves (단풍). My students had a lot of fun yelling in English and complaining that they were tired. I wish I could spend time with the students and teachers outside of class setting more often.

5. After hiking a mob of second grade girls came over and started asking me questions about the U.S. and about my life. The conversation ended with us taking many, many pictures together (though I only managed to snag this one where everyone is covering their face).





November can be a tough month as winds pick up and the sun sets sooner. I know I am giving thanks for heated floors, lemon tea and absorbing Korean Dramas. What are you thankful for this month?

LIFE IN GUMI: OH SO SLOWLY

This last week or so has been relatively uneventful — a lovely dose of home life for me. So what have I been up to? Mostly planning my lessons. Post-midterms I resolved to get my classes in line, both in terms of discipline and content. For me that means planning my lessons further in advance and planning those lessons in step with the other English teachers. This makes it easier for me to gauge what vocabulary to use and what needs to be covered. On the other hand, this method constricts me to two or three lessons per section which will take some getting used to. Right now my first graders are learning about advice, my second graders are learning about environments and my third graders are learning about congratulations. Things are, in fact, going quite well right now — something I’m glad I can finally say about teaching.

Not that it has been so bad, but that finally I think I’m doing a pretty good job (or at least a more consistent job). Of course this has only been for about a week and I know there will still be many ups and downs to some in this first year of teaching, but still I am pleased. Especially as there was a point not long ago when I was despairing over ever disciplining my classes effectively. However, in the last week I’ve made an effort to change my ways and it has been both easier and more pleasant than I imagined. I think I felt as many young teachers must — I didn’t want to be too harsh, to appear mean ... I thought I might feel bad for disciplining students. In actuality I don’t feel bad for keeping order in my classroom — I feel empowered and I think my students do too. A classroom with order and structure (in whatever form) is a comfortable classroom and one where learning can take the fore.

Besides school I’ve been, well, living. I finished another chapter of my Korean textbook and am almost done with another. A new coffeeshop, Gusto, opened in our neighborhood (did I mention the darth of cafes was my only complaint about the area?) and I’ve been several times. Once I went with my host family to celebrate my first paycheck. They asked me if in America we have the “first paycheck ceremony.” They explained “For your first paycheck you  - to your parents,” “give?” “Yes, you give your parents...what is the word?” Then after some family discussion, “You give your parents underwear.”

I asked my parents if they want me to mail them some delicates, but they declined.

Last week I also watched my first Korean film (shocking, I know). 완득이 (Wan Deuki, English title: Punch) follows the relationship of high school 2nd grader Wan Deuk and his meddlesome homeroom teacher with the nickname Dung Zoo. Funny at times, touching at others and occasionally both at once, Wan Deuki was just what I hoped it might be. The film develops a full cast of quirky characters all of whom have some part to play before the end. However, what I really love is that the film's resolution delicately brings the film to a close without miraculously curing all of Wan Deuk’s ills. I would so like to say more, but would rather encourage you to watch the film yourself and, if you do, to let me know what you think in a comment (the film is on Netflix under the name Punch).

Otherwise, I’ve been playing with my host cousins, keeping up with the dramas and sleeping copious amounts. It’s still very pleasant here is Gumi, though cool — dare I say, cold — at night.  Enough that we’ve already had the floor heating on a few times — just once was enough for me to know that it’s the best thing in the world.  I also had my first meeting with my NKD mentee (North Korean Defector). With the help of a translator we planned what day we want to meet and  what we want to cover at our meetings. From now on we will meet once a week to study English, and a little Korean, together. My mentee is a girl, only a little older than I am. After our meeting we went to drink juice and eat toast. We found out we both like the Batman movies, hiking and Korean noodles which is, I think, a lot to start from.

Playing Uno with the host cousins. I showed them the game during Chuseok. Now when they come over they ask right away, "우노 해요?" (Play Uno?)

TOUGH LOVE

No one ever said teaching was easy, but in the course of this week I've come to think of teaching in the same manner as extreme sports like ultramarathons and cave diving. All three require specialized knowledge and preparation, but it is the performer's endurance that is tested. In teaching I can plan my lessons, my classroom management strategies, my routines and goals — but what matters is how I execute those plans while actually teaching. In the classroom, the real test is keeping the class engaged. This week I'm engaging the students by increasing discipline and pacing.

Last week, my biggest difficulty was with students talking and becoming distracted throughout my lessons, so that I was constantly having to call their attention back to me and ask them to be quiet. The problem came both from my newness as a teacher and the nature of the lesson. I was doing an introductory lesson aiming to tell the students about myself and learn a little about their English levels (and personalities).

Since I was already planning to make journaling a part of our classroom routine I decided to have the students introduce themselves by making covers for their journals including their names, a picture of themselves and several sentences describing their personalities and things they like. For practical reasons it made sense for the students to make the journals as well. (I was not buying 735 journals, nor was I planning on making 735 journals by myself either. Someone told me that in teaching 'never do anything yourself that the students can do' and I think it was very good advice.)

However, making the journals required several separate steps as well as some translation from my co-teachers on the trickier instructions, both of which drew the class's attention away from me. Once we moved into the actual drawing and writing things went much smoother and the final results ranged from thoughtful to hilarious.

A sampling of my favorites (students' names removed for privacy):

One of my more eloquent students. Love the attitude in the portrait.

And then I get journals like this. Trolling indeed.

Sometimes those that don't follow the directions are most revealing. I am charmed by this student's stag beetles.

One of the best drawings I received and a classic self description. All students like chicken.

And of course there are a few odd-balls. I'm not sure what makes this one so good, the flying oranges, the tiny chorus line, or the emphasis of "I feel good ~ and cool ~".

PHOTO STORY — 8/20/13

Today was hectic and wonderful, but most importantly filled with photo opportunities, so, until I can write a full post on teaching, let me tell you about the other parts of my day.

This is the view from a back window at my school, Gumi Shinpyeong Middle School. I am not in the least bit over my honeymoon with the Korean landscape. Every time I walk by a window I catch my breath.

Here is my desk at school. I share an office with my Fulbright co-teacher in the English hallway. I worried it might be lonely, away from the other teachers, but people are often dropping in to use the printer or just say hello. Every day after lunch we have coffee together with one of the other English teachers. I really appreciate the teachers here letting me into their routines and relationships, even with (and despite) my pitiable Korean skills.

Here is my view walking home from school. It's only a 5 minute walk but I get to survey Gumi and the surrounding mountains as I go. Between trying to get on my feet with teaching and getting to know my host family I haven't explored Gumi much yet, a fact I hope to change very soon. Tomorrow I should be opening a local bank account and I plan to purchase a bus card as well.

 This evening my host family and I went to Geumo Mountain and walked around the lake there. Geumo is famous for the obvious beauty and because of this a little holiday town has grown up there complete with a mini theme park and hordes of cute restaurants.

We stayed late enough to see tired families heading home and college students heading out for the night.

Tomorrow is another day of teaching, wish me luck! ~ Josephine

PRELUDE

Just a quick update to say I'm teaching my first classes tomorrow (terrified screams ensue). In reality I'm probably as prepared as I can be at this point.

I will be teaching various classes from all three grades of middle school tomorrow — nothing too demanding since it's my first time meeting the students. The plan is to introduce myself and my class rules for about one third of the lesson. The other two-thirds will be spent having the students construct paper journals that they will write in for the rest of the semester. Then each student will decorate the cover of his or her journal with a cartoon describing his or her self, their likes and dislikes as well as personal traits. I hope this will be a fun activity and that reviewing the cartoons later will help me understand my students and their English abilities a bit better.

In other news, today I made kimbap with my family and then painted my nails with one of my host sisters, both of which were a lot of fun. In my family it's pretty customary to jump into lounging clothes (read pajamas) as soon as you get home from work/school/hagwon and I think I will never ever go back to wearing real clothes at home.

GUMI (구미) — TURTLE TAIL CITY

Tuesday I found out that I am going to spend the next year of my life in Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea. Gumi is a suburban town of about 300,000 people and is known as Korea's industrial center, the home of both Samsung and LG. Happily for me, Gumi is only a 30 minute bus ride from Daegu (the 4th largest city in Korea) where one of my friends, Sophia, was placed.

Being in Gumi means I have all the community of a smaller town, but with all the opportunity of a large city. One of my main requests for placement was the ability to travel and Gumi is connected to all the rest of Korea through the rail and express bus system. I can be in Seoul in 3 hours and Gwangju in 3 and a half. I was excited to find out Gumi is also the home of Samsungwon orphanage, birthplace of Kkoom, a nonprofit dedicated to improving the lives of Korean orphans through outreach and education. I want to use this opportunity to bring service into my life in Korea in a big way.

In Gumi I'm going to teach at a public, co-ed middle school of about 700 students. Until I am actually at the school I won't know more about the actual number of students I'm teaching or my teaching schedule. However, I'm already envisioning the many art projects and activities I want to work into my lessons. I also won't know whether I'm teaching from a textbook and what my homestay family is like until I actually arrive in Gumi.

In my year I hope to develop my independence through writing and traveling. I hope to develop my humility, my generosity, my perseverance through working with my students and volunteering. But I also hope to be watchful for the unexpected moments and events which can be more transformational than anything I myself could plan. So I am excited to discover what Gumi has in store for me.

As I write this I am, of course, sitting in a cafe eating a delicious 컵빙수 (batbingsu in a cup). This one is ice, rice cake (yum!), red beans, pinneaple, peach, and condensed milk — delicious. We just got our stipend for the next week so I can afford to escape Jungwon again. Not that the building is so horrible, but with 4 hours of Korean class each morning and lesson planning to look forward to all afternoon a change of scenery is not just welcome, but necessary. I've tried a couple of the cafes in Goesan now and I admire this one for its large windows and acoustic 90s music.

Today I have a special mission. Besides catching up on my blogging I need to memorize a speech for Korean class. This speech is 20% of our grade based on fluency and intonation. I've been doing pretty well with accuracy, but speaking on the spot is not my strong suit. Just glad this is memorization and not improvisation. Wish me luck!